There is one small detail you might notice when looking at these Hidden Body VINs. Those 8 simple characters can confirm that the body is original and can be labeled “numbers matching”. The first letter in this stamping will be the manufacturing plant and since E-Bodies were only built at two locations it will be either a B or E ( B=Hamtramck, MI or E=Los Angeles, CA), the next number will be the year the E-Body was built ( 0=1970, 1=1971, 2=1972, 3=1973 4=1974), and then, after a space, the remaining 6 numbers are the specific serial numbers of the vehicle VIN ( last 6 numbers of the Dash VIN). The hidden Body VINs are stamped in two locations (Cowl & Radiator Support). Let’s check for the hidden Body VINs! Most people in this hobby call them Body Numbers or Body VINs and in fact they are really only a partial VIN. they match), it’s time for the real excitement to begin. #3 & 4 COWL & RADIATOR VIN: Now that the Title and Dash VINs are confirmed (i.e. If it’s removed from the dash, pay very close attention to the next section about hidden Body VINs.Ĭlick here for a Dash VIN decoder (Coming Soon) Pretty much all states have laws against removing or modifying these Dash VIN numbers with the intent to deceive or profit by deception so it’s best if it’s still attached to the car’s dash. The VIN numbers are raised during the embossing process and sometimes the flat black paint will be worn. The Mopar Pentastar with the text “CHRYSLER CORPORATION” are silk screened in white below the embossed VIN number. Original E-Body rivets have a ‘rosette’ head (see photo 2). Next, take a close look at the rivets and screened logo. Close does not work in this situation it must be a 100% perfect match. All titles will show the VIN and that specific VIN needs to be the same as the VIN riveted on the dash pad. First thing you want to check is see if the VIN matches the Title. #2 DASH VIN: The Dash VIN is riveted to the drivers side of the dash pad and can be seen from outside the vehicle by looking through the windshield in the lower drivers side corner. Cars without titles are risky and rarely ever worth the hassle. Unless you come across a very unique situation that can explain exactly why the car does not have a title or registration, I would suggest you keep looking for a different project. Make no mistake, a project without any title or registration is troubling. If buying a car from a state that only uses registrations for older cars, you’ll need to contact your state, where you want to title the car, to see how they will handle it. A small number of states do not title older vehicles and instead only use registrations. Check with the state in which the title was lost to find out their process for resolving a lost title. Almost all states make it easy to get a new copy of a lost title and it can often be done quickly without much paper work. Yes, not having a title is most often a big problem, but it could be something as simple as the current owner lost it. You need to first determine why it is missing it’s title. If in your search you come across a project that does not have a title at all, don’t give up on the car before you find out more information. It’s always good to have your local DMV do a check to assure the Vehicle is not stolen.
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